Village preserves art of fish sauce
23/04/2014 01:32
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Situated at the foot of the Hai Van Pass, 17km northwest of downtown Da Nang city, Nam O village boasts pristine beaches and a thriving fishing industry. The village of 5,000 has produced fish sauce since the 19th century, and the trade still earns villagers their livelihood.
March is anchovy fishing season. The small fish and salt are the only materials needed to make what is considered by many the best fish sauce in the central region of Viet Nam.
The family of Tran Ngoc Vinh, 65, has been making fish sauce in Nam O for four generations. Vinh has been fishing since the age of 20 and is a founder of the village's Fish Sauce Trade Association, which includes 110 households practicing the traditional technique.
Time for fishing: March is anchovy fishing season.
Some of the fish Vinh and others catch is sold to wholesalers at the village market, while the remainder is fermented along with salt in terra-cotta or jackfruit wood jars.
"It seems to be an easy formula: four kilos of salt to one kilo of anchovies. All villagers know that formula. But the best sauce makers know that there is more to it," said Vinh.
Materials must be carefully selected. The salt comes from two major salt marsh areas: Sa Huynh in Quang Ngai Province and Ca Na in Ninh Thuan Province. Just one rotten fish can spoil a huge lot of fish sauce.
After 10 months to a year, the first drops of amber liquid run out from a small tap at the bottom of the jar, and the product can be eaten or sold at the market. The best quality fish sauce has a honey colour.
"We still follow the traditional way of mostly manual work. We don't use any food additives or monosodium glutamate," Vinh said.
Annually, the village produces 100,000 litres of premium fish sauce from nearly 200 tonnes of anchovies. Each ton of fish produces 550 litres of fish sauce and a VND10 million (US$480) profit.
Pham Sy Tan, 77, said fish sauce has been his family's main source of income since he entered the trade 40 years ago.
"My wife and I grew up in the fishing village. Strong men sailed out to sea for fishing, while women undertook the processing of sea products," Tan said.
"My wife died last year, but I still make fish sauce with my children. My family produces 2,000 litres per year for revenue of VND120 million ($5,700)."
"We still follow the old recipe. Hygienic production keeps our product top-quality and safe," Tan explained.
